The Brotherhood of Steel - Quick Horsepower Tips

Thinking of modifying your car, but need some advice? This is your source!

Horsepower Tip #1: Have a 1986-1993 fox bodied mustang? First thing you need to do, remove the airbox. Behind it, up in the fender well, you will find a "conch" shell looking device. Remove it. It is the air silencer, supposedly lowers the noise level coming from the induction under the hood. It is a big bottle neck, and should be removed asap. Good for 1 or two ponies, but trust me, it makes a HUGE difference later in the equation.

Horsepower Tip #2: Get a timing gun. Check your timing on your vehicle. Make sure to remove the resistor hooked in line to the distributor. If you do not remove it, you will not get a true reading. Most mustangs seem to react favorably by advancing the timing to around 13 degrees initial. Just remember, too much can lead to detonation. This will take some time to get it perfect, I have seen some mustangs get away with 16 degrees (normally, this is due to poorly machined harmonic balancers, rather than actually having that much timing.)

Horsepower Tip #3: Get a belt that will allow you to bypass the smog devices while at the track (). If your car never sees street duty, simply remove the smog pump (once they come off, they usually lock up within a week or so anyway.) Be sure to cap the crossover tube on the H-Pipe, otherwise, you will have a nasty exhaust leak.

Horsepower Tip #4: Another "track tip", if you do not have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, you may want to try taking the vaccum plug off of the stock regulator (located behind the throttle body). Be sure to plug the vaccum hose with a screw or something, as not to have a vaccum leak. This will bump your fuel pressure up a few points, and normally is good for a couple ponies. (Be sure to replace the vaccum hose before you drive home though. You only think you get bad gas mileage now...)

Horsepower Tip #5: This tip doesnt increase horsepower, but it does make a difference at the track. Removal of the front sway bar. Not only does this remove about 20-30 pounds off of the nose of the vehicle, it also allows more frontend travel, which equates to better traction. (Warning: She will handle like a tuna boat after this procedure, but for a straight line cruiser, I believe it is worth it.)

Horsepower Tip #6: Another freebie, but doesnt increase horsepower. Over inflate your front tires, this makes the contact patch smaller, thus less rolling resistance. If you are running radials, do not "bag" them down...this will decrease the contact patch as well. Radials work best (traction wise) on the strip with about 26psi, from my experience. (Of course, Drag Radials and Slicks are BY FAR the weapon of choice.)

I only ask one thing next time you go to the track. Run a baseline with your car setup stock. Then do these modifications, then make another pass. I guarantee at least 2-3 tenths off your ET. Not too shabby, let me see...this all costs...about $30 for the belt? Thats it. 2-3 tenths for $30? I dont think anyone else can claim that!